Yet another 1.8T with 300bhp under the hood...

[marecek]

Hi,
since this is my first post here, I'd like to welcome everyone and share details of my 1.8T project.

The car is 2001 AWT, wagon, driven on 177@270Nm setup since the very beginning. Everything started in january - I bought garrett GT28RS and custom made exhaust intake....

Following table should summarize things that were done to make this car drive:

- turbo Garrett GT28RS 0.86 A/R
- 3" to 2,5" downpipe, 2,5" see-through exhause build on two cans with sport cat to come this month
- very large FMIC (600x300x75)
- 3" air intake with 3" audi TT MAF
- black painted stainless steel FMIC railings, 2.5"
- samco blue silicon connectors
- MBC Turbosmart
- Bosch injectors 440cc
- 4 bar fuel pressure valve
- custom made injector rail
- Walbro 255 GSS342 fuel pump
- additional gauges Boost, EGT, Oil Press

The car lacks stage II clutch, so now on the torque was reduced to 330 Nm under 1.05 bar pressure. Now the OEM clutch slipps when the pressure is higher than 1.2 bar. But the fun is all that matters Sachs Performance clutch is ready to handle more than expected 440Nm.

This is how the power chart looks like now: http://www.206club.net/vp.php?p=Zl8wMDAxMTUxLmpwZw==

And more pictures follow:



The car is put on 15" steel wheels with cups cause modifications begun in the middle of the winter





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So far I got one major problem - fuel vent. The fuel pump, originally placed GS340 had problems with delivering expected 4 bars fuel pressure. It war switched with GS342. After that the problem did not dissapear, but it is much better (I have to drive on more than 3/4 gas tank filled up). I still need to find a way to vent it up better... any ideas?

 

[Subzero]

I think a big problem is the position of your air filter. Weren't you able to find a hotter place??

 

[kane01]

perhaps steam bubble formation?

 

[marecek]

At first I also thought that placing air filter so close to the turbocharger would cause some temperature problems including knock combustion. So called "hot air intake" is not that hot at all... The temperature (at least now) does not exceed 50 oC, but the installed FMIC is huge at the moment...

The problem concerns the fuel tank vent - when the pump sucks fuel for a longer while (i.e. when you push the pedal to the metal for like 30 seconds), the fuel pressure (measured on the injectors' rail) drops suddenly from 4 to 2 bars and EGT increases quite fast. It does not happen if the fuel tank is more than 50% filled. Else it is noticeable... Did any of you come across such problem with tank vent valve? Can I replace it with anything else?

Or looking at it from a different perspective - what fuel pump did you use?

 

[mac]

does the fuel pressure stay up when you leave the filler-cap open?

 

[marecek]

does the fuel pressure stay up when you leave the filler-cap open?

that one is to be checked... I dont know that.

 

[Matthias]

Hi!

Nice Built up!

Have you tried to use a larger hose for the tank ventilation? Evtl. with a external ventilation valve?

Grüsse
Matthias

 

[racer88]

Hi!

Have you still installed the stock cat? If not, how have you figured the problem with the two lambda sensors?


racer88

 

[Geri]

- Walbro 255 GSS342 fuel pump

this pump delivers 210 Liters per hour, that`s what I found here:
http://www.injectedperformance.com/ec/product.aspx?ID=1635

that should be mooore than enough. You problem sure is NOT the pump, maybe you have not enough energy (AMPS) cause of a weak power supply.

I have to drive on more than 3/4 gas tank filled up

or the snorkle is simply to short or it`s bended.

and what about the FPR? Which one do you use? For this engine you need a heavy duty FPR placed on an extern position, and it should be adjustable.

regarding intake, I also do not like your solution. Just think about to let it breath over the right sided fender like different others car do.